Paul Smalera

Another issue of New York Press brings with it another restaurant review from yours truly. Harlem is still mostly undiscovered territory to me, dining wise. I’ve eaten at perhaps a half a dozen restaurants above 96th street. One of the ones I enjoyed most (though you can hardly call it a restaurant) is Charles’ Southern Kitchen on 125th. So good it inspired me to reach back to my ’80s childhood for a headline: Charles’ in Charge.